When it comes to sizing a heating appliance, it's important that you choose a product that does what it should without heating you out of your home or requiring a full bore burn 24 hours a day to provide the necessary heat.

Although EPA Phase II woodburning appliances are more forgiving than non-certified wood stoves that are under or oversized, you should give careful thought to a stove's heating capability, along with the variables that will have an effect on it.

Our staff is trained to ask the question that will help us determine which products are best for you. We'll gather hard-and-fast data such as your home's size, insulation, plus variables such as how you plan to operate your stove and what type of fuel you plan to burn.

Clearances and Placement
Unless you're adding a fireplace insert or gas log set to an existing fireplace, hearth appliance placement calls for some planning on your part. Take a stroll through your home and visualize where you would like your unit installed.

As a rule, heating appliances operate best if they're centrally located. They're best installed on the main floor in one of the most used rooms in your home. Placing your unit near and open stairwell helps to draw warm air near the ceiling up to the second floor, while at the same time channeling cooler air downstairs. In homes with high ceilings, circulating ceiling fans help push the heat down to your living space, while optional or standard fan systems on your appliance will boost heat output throughout.

If you're considering an appliance equipped with a fan, locate likely electrical outlets. If your home has a sunspace that's exposed to solar heat during the day, install your appliance on the opposite side of the house to even out room temperatures. Also consider your family's traffic pattern through the house, and if you're adding a woodburning appliance, determine where your fuel supply will be located.

Our staff can help you plan. Bring along a sketch of your home's floor plans for us to review, or blueprints if you have them. If you're considering a fireplace insert, the dimensions of your fireplace insert are a must. Measure the width and height of the opening and the depth of your fireplace at hearth level and 24 inches (610 mm) above the hearth. Also measure the extension of the hearth in front of the fireplace.

Remember that there may need to be structural changes to allow for proper installation. These changes differ by appliance, especially when it comes to venting. A closer look at what modifications to expect will help you decide where your hearth will be most at home.

Clearances
Clearances tell you how close your appliance and its venting system can be installed to combustibles such as walls and furnishings.

The National Fire Protection Agency's Standard 211 (ULC or CSA in Canada) sets guidelines for listed and unlisted woodburning stoves and inserts and their venting systems. Most manufacturers safety test and list their appliances for clearances will below those standards for different materials that can be used in installation, such as double-wall connector pipe, or in the case of fireplace inserts, mantel shields. It's important to follow the manufacturer's listed clearances for all hearth appliances, and to keep in mind that combustibles also include newspaper or firewood near your appliance.

Be sure to contact your insurance company once installation is complete. Your homeowner's policy may need to be updated, and an inspector may need to pay a call to make sure your installation is both safe and meets local codes.

Nothing is more important to us than the safe installation of the products we sell. That's why professional installation is a must. We make it a priority to keep up with local building and safety codes to ensure safe, approved installations that reflect current requirements in our area. Because the most important things we can offer you and your family are satisfaction, security and, ultimately, peace of mind.

Chimneys and Proper Installation
Your stove's chimney system is one of the most important components to ensure to proper, responsive operation you're looking for. Most people think of chimney's as a means of releasing exhaust gases from the fire. But equally important is that they create a draft from heat rising up the chimney. They "inhale" room or outside air into your stove for combustion and then "exhale" skyward what's left.

Without proper draft, your stove can't do its job and will burn less efficiently and, if it is a wood-burner, will create more creosote. It will also release more smoke up the flue. Because EPA Phase II-approved wood-burning products are more efficient, they hold most of the heat in the firebox and release more heat into the home.

The problem is, in conventional installations with large, existing chimneys, the flue gases are allowed to expand and cool well before they reach the top of the chimney. This results in poor draft and corrosion-causing condensation, which can also be caused by green wood or improper operation. Other sources of poor draft include insufficient chimney height and exhaust fans in tightly insulated homes, which can cause "negative pressure".

But, the prefabricated, stainless steel flue liners, chimneys and chimney connectors we carry are designed to maintain high flue temperatures with less heat to give your stove the "breathing room" it needs, by precisely matching the diameter of your stove's flue collar. They are also safer than ever because they reduce the formation of flammable creosote.

UL and ULC listed, HT (high temperature) chimney systems for wood-burning stoves have been tested to withstand 2,100 degrees F (1,149 degrees C). Plus, because of their enhanced draft, they're less likely to "back puff" into your home. They also make it easier to clean your fireplace insert without removing it.

For venting a wood stove or insert into an existing masonry chimney, we often suggest relining the chimney for safety, increased performance and to meet local codes. There are two types of relining. One is a stainless steel liner that extends from the top of the stove to a point above your roof. Another, used in masonry fireplaces, is a poured, insulated reline. A removable "former" that fits your chimney's opening is inserted, castable refractory material is poured around it, and the former is removed, leaving a durable, custom-made refractory liner extending to the top of the chimney. A reline is a sound solution for masonry chimneys that don't meet code requirements, or have eroded mortar joints or cracks.

Our store carries a complete line of listed, approved venting systems to complete your installation. By matching your product with its appropriate venting system, we'll be ensuring that the performance you'll get.

Woodburning Stoves
A wood stove is most often vented vertically, with a chimney system through the roof, or through an outside wall, extending above the roof. Of the two, straight roof venting is better, because outside wall installation can result in poor draft, and chimney length or installation may need to be added to compensate. This is due to outside air temperatures cooling the chimney and the bends required for the pipe, both of which can restrict draft. It's also more expensive to install and clean outside wall installations.

Ceiling venting, on the other hand, improves performance and almost always costs less.

A third option is venting your stove through an existing masonry chimney, although it should be checked by a professional to ensure there are no cracks and that it meets code and safety requirements. In some situations, a reline will be necessary, as previously discussed.

Your chimney will need to extend at least three feet (914 mm) above the point on the roof it penetrates and two feet (609 mm) taller than any object within 10 feet (3048 mm) of it. Remember that these are minimum heights, and your chimney may need to be higher for your stove to operate properly.

Another requirement for most stoves is floor protection. Floor protection dimensions vary from stove to stove, and you may want to invest in an oversized hearthpad for extra space for toolsets and accessories. We can help you determine the space your stove and hearthpad will take up in your home. Noncombustible hearthpad materials required by manufacturers can be finished in stone, colorful decorative tile or brick to create a showcase base for your stove.

A double or triple wall Class A, UL 103 HT (or ULC 2629M) listed, stainless steel chimney and roof or passes through an outside wall, turns up, and then extends to the appropriate height above your roof. A chimney connector pipe must be used to attach your stove to your chimney system. Both double-wall and single-wall connector pipe is available. Double-wall pipe can be placed closer to combustible surfaces, making stove placement more versatile.

Woodburning Fireplace Inserts and Stoves Venting Into Masonry Chimneys
Rigid or flexible stainless steel liners (and in the case of stoves, other system components) vent your stove or insert from the unit to where the gases exit the flue. Flexible liners are ideal for masonry chimneys with bends or protrusions. A poured reline is another option to match your flue's diameter with your insert or stove.

Woodburning Factory-Built Fireplaces
Installation will vary between different brands of factory-built fireplaces, and the manufacturer's specifications for framing and facing materials must be strictly followed for a safe installation. Some require a metal strip, installed below and in front of the unit.

Double or Triple-wall chimney systems tested to UL 127 standards extend from the unit to the roof area. Your chimney system must be approved as indicated in the manufacturer's owner's manual.

Gas Stoves and Fireplaces
Gas appliances vent through an outside wall, through a new or existing prefabricated chimney or a relined masonry fireplace. Relining is requited by manufacturers, and is important for proper draft. Gas, when it burns, forms a water vapor, a byproduct of combustion. In a masonry fireplace, water vapor can seep into the chimney's surfaces, or into your home.

A reline with an aluminum or stainless steel gas liner provides a surefire path for condensation to exit the house. Once the reline is complete, if there is considerable space between the inside of the masonry chimney and the liner, or especially if your chimney is on an outside wall in a cold climate, added insulation may be needed to prevent condensation.

Type B gas vent, less expensive than chimney systems for appliances that burn cordwood, vents exhaust from freestanding gas stoves and fireplaces. Direct-vent appliances use components sold with the appliance to vent and introduce combustion air through an outside wall or thorough the roof.

Gas Inserts
Aluminum or stainless steel gas liner is used to vent your gas fireplace insert inside a masonry fireplace. As with other gas appliances, relining is required by the manufacturer and, depending on the open area between the liner and the chimney, added insulation may be necessary to keep condensation from forming.

Gas Logs
Vented gas logs must be vented through an existing chimney with proper draft, with the damper permanently secured in the open position or removed.