• No Dirt, Ashes, or Wood in the House
• No Loss of Space
• Excellent for mobile or modular homes

Lil' House Outside Wood Heater

* ONLY $1545.00
* Price based on customer pickup at our store.
For shipping to your location anywhere in the U.S,
please call or email for a price quote.
Telephone: 1-888-338-8584
Email: info@hechlers.com

(photo of Lil' House Heater not installed)

30 Day, 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
If within 30 days of use, when installed according to the instructions, you are not completely satisfied, simply return in good condition to the manufacturer in Ironton, MO for a full refund of purchase price.

Features Include

• Rated 100,000 BTU
• Heats up to 2400 sq. ft. with cold are return(s)
• Big 465 CFM Blower Complete with Fan Limit Switch
• Baked on Enamel Finish, needs no maintenance or cover from weather
• Entire Unit insulated with a 1200 degree insulation.
• Simple Set Manual Draft.
• No expensive Chimney needed
• Sits on Concrete Pad or Blocks.
• Giant 7.5 cu. ft. 32 Inch Firebox for twice a day load, burns up to 12 hours.
• 16 Gauge Steel Firebox guaranteed against burnout for 5 years.
• Heats entire home without expensive duct system.

How the Heater Works...
The drum is a high capacity, cylindrical firebox. On the upper portion of the door is the adjustable draft control disk, for the regulation of air entering the unit. The air is preheated as it is drawn down the internal draft channel (on the inside of the door). The draft is sucked into the bottom of the heater with a turbulent action, mixing with the wood gases for efficient combustion.

The patented design of the airtight door and the matching door frame and the internal draft channel make the unit spark proof.

16 gauge steel walls of the drum heater are strong enough to withstand constant high temperatures, and yet generate quick heat. (It takes heat longer to travel through heavy-walled material. And the more heat that penetrates the surface, the less hot air escapes up the chimney.) This stove, therefore, allows the maximum amount of heat to penetrate into your home.

Being round gives the barrel more resistance to stress. In the heavy, flat-sided rectangular stoves, the corners get hotter. In the round thinner walled stove, the temperatures of the wall is more uniform, therefore, the thermal stresses are less. And, since steel is flexible, it has the ability to bend under stress, while cast iron can only crack when it reaches extreme temperatures.

No Grates, Please
Hot coals last longer in stoves without grates. Ashes which the coals lie in keep oxygen from reaching much of the charcoal surface and thus reduces the rate of combustion. The ashes also thermally insulate the coals, slowing the cooling rate.

Without a grate, large volumes of ash are allowed to accumulate and not effect the stove's operation. Compaction is also possible when wood lies directly on the ashes. The heat from a direct fire can fuse the ash into a semi-solid crust, thus allowing more ash to be stored in the same volume of space.

Duct Work
The unit is designed to operate with only one heating duct coming through a wall or window. Existing ductwork is not designed for wood heat. And will not effectively move the heat around your home because of static pressure. It is also not safe because existing ductwork is not insulated and sits up next to your floor studs. If you have a power failure, existing ductwork could possible become overheated causing a fire.

Just One Heat Register
Through the one (1) register your Lil' House Heater will supply your home with 465 cubic foot per minute of air heated to above 120 degrees. Used in conjunction with a cold air return supply air from the far side of your home you are actually moving 930 cubic foot per minute of (your home's own) air. As the duct pushes the heat in, the cold air return pulls air out; thus moving the heat through your home efficiently.

May I Burn Coal In My Wood Heater?
Definitely, NO!!! This is a wood burner only. The use of coal requires grates and a large volume of oxygen for proper combustion. Our unit is designed to provide a controlled small amount of oxygen required for wood burning.

For Safe Operation Of Your Woodburner:
* Place the stove on a fireproof base.
* Burn only dry, well seasoned firewood.
* Dispose of ashes in a closed metal container outside the house.
* Inspect the chimney DAILY for creosote build up.
* Install smoke detectors to alert family members should a malfunction occur.
* Consult the owner's manual for installation and operating instructions.

Why No Grates? Sand? Firebrick?
Our Instructions are to operate the heater with at least 2" of wood ash to insulated the bottom of the drum. (The presence of wood ash helps promote the formation of charcoal in within the drum.) THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO ADVANTAGE IN USING FIREBRICK, ETC., in the heater, and we strongly advise against it for the following reasons:

1. The kits were tested to U.L. Standard 1492 by R.F. Geisser Laboratories, WITHOUT firebrick, sand or grates. Therefore, any test results mentions herein refer to testing the units with wood ash as insulation.
2. During damp or humid weather, when the unit is not in use, moisture will form between the firebricks and most probably result in the drum rusting out.
3. Firebrick or sand will hold the heat in the unit, resulting in lower transfer of heat from the unit. Thus, lowering efficiency.
4. The presence of firebrick, and grates reduces the amount of fuel which can be put in the heater, and increases the frequency of ash removal. WILL ALSO VOID AL WARRANTIES.

Please read all installation instructions thoroughly and operate unit as recommended.

Warranty
The fire box on your Lil' House Heater is warranted for 5 full years against burnout. NOT RUST.

Care and Maintenance of Heater
During the heating season, do not remove all of the ashes, but leave about 2" for insulation the bottom of the unit. TO MAINTAIN SAFE FLOOR TEMPERATURES, ALWAYS OPERATE WITH AT LEAST 2" OF ASH IN THE UNIT. However, do not store the heater for the summer, or let stand idle for any extended period of time, without first cleaning out all the ashes. Moisture from high summer humidity reacts with accumulated ashes to form lye, which has a damaging effect on metal parts. Wipe heater inside with a light coat of oil for summer storage. Take down chimney and cover opening. Crumpled Newspaper also helps to reduce moisture while not in use.

Operating Instructions:
Draft Control In Daily Use:
Once the heater has developed a bed of coals, you can start closing the draft control in small increments until the heater reaches the point where it is putting out the amount of heat you require.

Adding Fuel:
Keep the hot wood coals pulled to the front of the stove, by the air inlet. This is a very important point in the efficiently using the charcoal your woodstove will produce. Heat from burning charcoal will help clear creosote you've just puled to the front of the unit. Open up the draft control to admit extra air so the fire burns hotter, again to help prevent excess creosoting.

Never use gasoline, gasoline type lantern fuel, kerosene, charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids to start or "freshen up" a fire in this heater. Keep all such liquids will away from the heater while it is in use.

Holding the Fire Overnight:
It is good practice to load up your heater 2 to 3 hours before bedtime, leaving your draft open at your normal day's setting. This will burn up any excessive wood gasses which might accumulate from the newly added charge of wood. Then at bedtime, you can top off your heater with just a few pieces of wood, and then cut down your draft control opening for your night setting.

Disposal of Ashes:
Ashes are removed through the door of the unit. Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a noncombustible floor or on the ground, will away from all combustible materials, pending final disposal. Ashes should be retained in the closed container until al cinders have thoroughly cooled.

Creosote - Formation and Need for Removal:
When wood is burned slowly, it produces tar and other vapors, which combine with expelled moisture to form creosote. The creosote vapors condense on the relatively cool chimney flue of a slow-burning fire. As a result, creosote residue accumulates on the flue lining. When ignited this creosote makes an extremely hot fire.

The chimney should be inspected DAILY; To control accumulation of residue inside the chimney, open door slightly and burn hot for five to ten minutes Tap pipe gently so that any accumulation will fall back into the firebox. If this is done on a regular basis as recommended, this will prevent undue accumulation and dangers from possible chimney fires.

Do not use grate or elevate fire. Build wood fire directly on inside bottom of stove. For use with solid WOOD fuels only. Install and use only in accordance with the manufacturer's installation and operating instructions. Inspect and clean chimney frequently. Under certain conditions of use, creosote buildup may occur rapidly.
Non-Compliance with operating instruction will void any and all warranties.

Questions & Answers
Won't You Lose All The Heat With It Still Sitting Outside?
NO. With our design, a layer of 22 gauge steel surrounds the firebox. It is then wrapped with a high temperature insulation board rated at 1200 degrees. This is then enclosed in a pre-painted metal outer skin which remains cool on the outside.

Won't The Rain And Weather Bother The Heater?
NO. The outer skin is made of galvanized metal with several coats of baked-on enamel. The same type material building manufacturers use.

How Do You Control The Amount Of Heat You Get?
The same way you would with a wood stove, by setting the draft openings on the door and the amount and type of wood you put in. Once you determine the proper setting, it shouldn't need any further adjustments.

How Long A Stick Of Wood Will It Burn?
It can take a stick up to 32 inches in length. However, we recommend 24 inches for ease of handling.

Installation Instructions
Please take a few minutes and read these instructions which contain several good hints and some "NO NO's" that present owners have encountered.

1. Select the part of your home where you would most likely have the heat vent entering. Hopefully this will be on the side of your home toward the prevailing winds. You can make the entry through the wall or raise a window.
2. Upon selecting the heater site, prepare a level site at least 42" x 30" square a maximum of 28 inches from the inside wall of your home. You can use 8 x 8 x 16 concrete blocks of each corner of the area to support the heater.
3. Place heater on blocks and check for level NEVER PLACE ON COMBUSTIBLE SURFACE. A drop of 1/2" to 1" on ONE front corner will allow any water accumulation to run off.
4. Place duct box over opening and align to side of building. Mark and cut hole for duct box. (Use caution an do not cut any electrical wiring.) Try to go between 2 wall studs if possible.
5. From inside of house, slide duct box in hole and slip tabs of outlet in duct box and slide box out till all tabs are engaged. You should have at least a 2" projection into the room.
6. Install blower with self tapping bolts. Install limit switch and wiring in heat vent and connect wiring as per separate directions and diagram. Cover over blower should have good clearance on intake side of blower.
7. Install collar and flange (small end down) into furnace and seal with silicone. Attach smoke stack and brace kit. Pipe should be 2 feet above eave edge to draw properly. CAUTION: Pipe must have 18 inch clearance to any combustible surface.
8. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO BURN OFF OIL FROM DRUM. Place small insulation board included in duct box inside duct box past heat sensor to block off heat from home temporarily. Build a hot fire in unit and allow blower to operate for at least 2 or more hours or until air from duct end is free of smoke. This initial "burn off' is important to ensure no smoke entering your home. After fire cools, remove insulation block and install inside end cover for duct box. Place duct box and cover on duct box and faster with sheet metal screws and seal all joints on duct and heater that are exposed to weather with silicone.

Material List
1- tube clear silicone (bathtub caulk)
1- 10 foot length of galvanized stove pipe (6" diameter)
1- 12-2 wire long enough to reach your fuse box
1- 10 foot length of 1/2" conduit

Using your duct work for return air
If you have an existing type of duct work in your home and would like to use it for your cold air return only, you may do so by cutting an 8" round hole into the duct and running flexible 8" diameter duct back to the hook up on furnace. If you do this you will need to close floor registers in the room or rooms closest to where heat comes in so that the air will pull from the furthest parts of the home for more even heat. This forms a vacuum to pull the heat through the house.

NO-NO's

1. Never close heat vent register with fire in heater.
2. Never close floor register while unit is in operation.
3. Do Not put nuts on door hinge bolts.
4. Do Not vent into existing duct work for heat.

YES-YES's

1. Burn dry seasoned wood - this will eliminate 75% of all creosote problems.
2. Clean out ashes when they have accumulated at bottom of door. Leave 2 or 3 inches in bottom of heater for insulation.
3. Load heater according to the weather: Small amounts of wood for mild temperatures; larger amounts for colder temperatures

click photo to enlarge

This installation shows how to use two (2) 8" return air ducts to heat a front and rear bedroom in a home or mobile home. Cold air return should be at least 8" circumference throughout entire system.

Blower has two wires. Fan Limit switch has two wires. There will also be two wires from house. Attach enclosed high temp wire on clips inside handy box. Slip wire through hole in bottom of duct box. Be sure heat sensor sticks through into duct box slightly. Place cover plate and insulation piece over box and screw in place. Put two wires through piece of conduit, cut from 10 foot section of conduit pipe. Be sure conduit connectors are on the bottom of handy box and the top of blower cover and both wires run through the conduit. Attach one wire from blower to one wire from switch. Attach second wire from blower to one wire from house. Attach second wire from switch to second wire from house. Forms a continuous circuit. This should be wired directly to fuse box so blower cannot be unplugged. See below illustration:

click photo to enlarge